Custom Windmills
Model Fischer Windmill
It all began in the summer of 1999, when my mom suggested that I
build a small windmill for our garden area. In developing drafts,
I realized that planning would be essential because the construction
would be complicated. For quite a few years, nothing came of the
project, although just for fun I would revisit the plans and make some
adjustments.
Two major breakthroughs convinced me to take on the project again.
One was the construction of
De Immigrant, which was photographed and posted on the Internet for
all to see. For the first time, I had a much better understanding
of what, exactly, went into the construction of a windmill.
The other was the discovery of Philip E. Vierling’s book about the
Fischer Windmill, which details nearly every square inch of machinery.
And with the Fischer Windmill falling apart, why not build a model of it
in its honor? Using AutoCAD and Vierling’s measurements, I
completed a set of digital plans that I could use. Money and time
constraints put the project on hold now and then.
When completed, the 1/12 scale windmill tower will stand 51 inches tall
with a sail span of 74 inches. The overall height will be just
under seven feet. The model will be based on the mill’s appearance
in 1926, when it was restored, operable, and had its west wing intact.
1. Materials and Planning
2008
All of the wood used for the structure of the mill is 1” or
3/4” square pine strips from The Home Depot. They
originally come in lengths of 12’ or more, so I cut them down to
4’ and 3’ strips at the store so they’d fit in my car.
From Ace Hardware I picked up some regular wood screws (#6,
1-1/2” and #6, 1-1/4”), bolts, mini eyehooks, and a piece of
clearance PVC pipe.
Before I dove in, I recreated a set of plans, to scale, for the
mill in AutoCAD; added dimensions; and printed them as a
reference.
2. Measure Twice, Cut Once
2008 - 2009
Accurate measurements are key when working in mini because
there is considerably less room for error. Just remember
to follow what you learned in shop class: “measure twice, cut
once.” After all: you can always cut away more wood, but
you can’t add it back on.
Another crucial piece in making measures and cuts is drilling
holes. I highly recommend a drill press; I, on the other
hand, used an ordinary hand-held cordless drill throughout much
of the
project. I always kept scrap pieces of wood on hand to
practice drilling a hole or cutting an angle before I applied it
to the model so that I wouldn’t ruin it!
3. Assembly of the Tower
June 11, 2009
The main structure of the windmill is the tower, a sloping
octagonal prism. The genius of its construction, though,
is that it’s built more like a house. “A” frames are
built, then assembled in sections. After adding a few
connecting pieces, it’s done! Just like that! I was
surprised to complete it in just a few hours.
4. Curb Ring and Cap Base
June 22, 2009
I knew the cap would be difficult to build because it
contains all of the moving parts, which need to be cut perfectly
for any of this to work.
The first order of business was to add the dead curb (a quilting
hoop) to the top of the tower. This is what will turn the
cap into the eye of the wind.
Next was to screw together the beams for the cap’s base, which include the shear trees, tie beams tail bearing beam, weather beam, and the half-beaing block.
The only difficulty here was cutting diagonal grooves into the bottom of the shear trees so that it would be able to rotate on the curb ring without falling off.
5. Wind Shaft
June 29, 2009
The scrap piece of pipe I bought from Ace Hardware was used
as a bearing for the wind shaft, which has four one-inch pieces
of wood screwed together. At the poll end of the shaft I drilled a
hole for a dowel rod, which the shaft rotates upon.
I temporarily added the sail stocks and gave it a spin with my
hand—and it worked! Even without adding lubricant to the
parts, it turns rather well. This is an indication that
the shaft is balanced.
6. Brake
July 5, 2009
Since I am not building this model for
accuracy on the interior, I needed to make some
design changes. Without a brake wheel, I
could not model a functioning Flemish brake
system. Instead, I screwed an old doorstop
to the back of the external brake lever, which
is applied to the wind shaft’s dowel rod.
A heavy pipe union glued to the top of the
lever helps to apply pressure to the brake.
The brake lever itself is bolted (with washers,
so that it can move) to the rear tie beam.
Like the real thing, the brake lever must be
pulled down to release the brake, and let go to
apply the brake.
7. Tail Pole and Diagonal Bracing
July 5, 2009
This was yet another challenging puzzle in that I had to
design multiple-angle cuts at either end of the tail pole and
diagonal braces so that they would fit neatly over the tie
beams.
About half of the work was math, and the other half was just
“eyeballing” it until it looked decent.
So that the parts can be moved, repaired, or relocated,
everything here is held together with bolts.
8. Sail Stocks and Framing
July 20, 2009
After another trip to Ace Hardware for some corner joiners
and all-weather adhesive, work continued. The frames for
the three wing buildings were constructed. Remember, this
is a model of the mill as it appeared in 1926; the shipping and
receiving wings, to the east and north, respectively, are still
present.
The west wing, now demolished, housed a steam engine that turned
the stones via cast-iron line shaft when there wasn’t enough
wind. Although this model will not have an auxiliary
motor, the addition of this wing adds to the mill’s unique
traits. Pictured to the left is the mill with its wing
buildings and the sail stocks, for a sense of scale.
9. Sails
June 2010
Unfortunately, I dropped my power drill on its back side
which cracked the bubble level built into it. Drilling
holes for the sail bars, which range from 0 degrees on center to
15 degrees to form the angle of weather (necessary for the wind
to push the sail), was accomplished through the purchase of a
small drill press.
The sails are constructed of inexpensive balsa, since the sails
are the most common repair item (and because balsa can bend a
little in the wind without breaking).
